Idiazabal Cheese, the Unpasteurized Sheep’s Milk Cheese from the Spanish Pyrenees.

Charles de Gaulle once said, “How can you be expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheeses?” Well, Spain just has around 100 types of cheese, but 100 is still a large number for a country with a population of only 44 million people. . You might not be able to govern a country with so many different types of cheese, but you definitely might be able to try them all if you are in Spain.

If you are in the U.S., you can start trying those that are already available in your local grocery store, and what better way to start than with Idiazabal, the unpasteurized sheep’s milk cheese from the Spanish Pyrenees.

That size is not always important is something that any small sheep called Latxa, from Northern Spain, can prove. Because of its small size, it only produces 100 liters of milk per season. Nonetheless, the quality of its milk is what makes Latxa so special. Its milk is the only one used to make the Spanish cheese, Idiazabal, the smoked sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque region. There is no doubt among farmers that Latxa milk is what makes this cheese so unique. ” Mr. Baskaran [a small Idiazabal farmer] was quick to tell [Mr.Pergament] that he didn’t deserve credit, his sheep did.” (Danielle Pergament).

The name Idiazabal comes from a village in the Goierri Valley in the heart of the Basque region. The reason why Idiazabal was chosen as the name of this cheese’s DOP it is not clear, but its long-held reputation – for more than a century - as a producer of quality cheese seems to be the most likely reason. Idiazabal is to the Basque region what Manchego cheese is to the Castilla region.

As with many others cheese in Spain, Idiazabal is a traditional cheese made by local farmers. It is handmade using unpasteurized Latxa milk. The process is simple but has some unique characteristics. The unpasteurized milk is heated until it reaches 86º F, when the coagulant is added at a ratio of 30 Cl. per liter. After 30 minutes, when the curdling has been completed, the curdle is cut in rice-size grains and then heated again at a temperature of 100º F . When it is sufficiently solid, it is transferred to a solid mould where the curd is pressed by hand hard enough to extract some of the remaining liquid. Once the cheese is in a mould, it is cured under cold and humidity for at least 60 days. Because of this minimum 60 days aging process, it complies with the USDA regulation for unpasteurized cheese and does not require any modification of its original manufacturing process as the majority of French cheeses do. Nonetheless, after new food safety rules were approved by the European Union, some of the traditional techniques had to be changed, but the essence of the process - dairy breeding, the aging process and the lack of pasteurization - remains.

Though it is a non-smoked cheese, some varieties are smoked which is allowed by the DOP only if does not affect the general stipulation for the production of Idiazabal Cheese. The crust is closed and smooth and its color goes from brown in its smoked variety to yellow-beige in its non smoked variety. The cheese texture is tight without air pockets. For Florence Fabricant, “[Idiazabal Cheese] has a pale interior and a firm, supple texture similar to provolone cheese.” The taste is robust and provocative, slightly acidic, and has the characteristic buttery touch of sheep milk cheeses. The smoked versions usually have a more pronounced aroma. Idiazabal is a small-medium size cheese with a weight between 2 and 4 lb.

Because this Spanish cheese is mostly made from small, local farmers, more producers make it than usual.. Farmers usually associate their production capacity with the quality of their cheese. “Big farms don’t make cheese like [Idiazabal farmers] do in the Basque country because the sheep eat grains and they’re more stressed, so the milk is weak,’ [A Idiazabal farmer] said. “My sheep live peaceful lives.” (Pergament). Each farmer thinks his cheese is the best and each one has a little secret that is keep generation after generation, “You [Idiazabal farmers] can tell how long a family has lived here by how they make cheese,” (Pergament). Others just think that if your sheep are happy they will return the favor with delicious cheese.

Some of the best known Idiazabal cheeses are Atekoa, a non-smoked variety made by Ángel Linzoain Eugi and awarded with a gold medal in the 2008 World Cheese Awards and Martin Txiki, a non smoked Idiazabal made by Pedro Zuzuarregui and awarded with one silver and 3 bronze medals in the past 2008 World Cheese Awards.

Idiazabal cheese has many supporters in the U.S. market One of the biggest is Jose Andrés, the most popular Spanish chef in the U.S. Idiazabal is a common “guest” in his restaurants, Jaleo, The Baazar, Café Atlantico - recipes, as well as his PBS cooking show “Made in Spain.” The U.S. press and specialized publications are also starting to spread the word about the unique characteristics of this Spanish cheese to the American consumer.

The number of U.S. importers listing Idiazabal in their catalogues is already significant. Companies like European Imports Ltd in Chicago, Great Ciao in Minneapolis, Swissrose International in New Jersey or Webeco Foods in California are just some examples of these importers. As a consequence, the availability of this Spanish cheese in U.S. grocery stores is starting to be somewhat less unusual. Stores like Whole Foods, Wegmans, latienda.com, igourmet.com and specialty cheese stores are already selling Idiazabal cheese. It is usually sold by 1 pound half wheel or ½ Pound quarter wheel for an average of $24/pound.

Idiazabal Cheese Producers:

Aizpea, S.C
Caserio Aizpea Barrio Gainera Olaberria
20212 Olaberria. Guipúzcoa. (Spain)
+34943160084

Ángel Linzoain Eugi
San Lorenzo, 23 Iragi (V.Esteríbar)
31639 Iragi. Navarra. (Spain)
+34948304337

Arantza Segurola Oiarzabal
Caserio Erreizabal-Barrio Telleriarte
20230 Legazpi. Guipúzcoa. (Spain)
+34943730875

Galtzata, S.C
Caserío Galtzata Pullegi Bidea, 3
20180 OIARTZUN. Guipúzcoa. (Spain)
+34943493422

Pedro Etxeberria
Caserío Alustiza s/n Casa Alustiza Amasa Villabona
20050 Villabona. Guipúzcoa. (Spain)
+34 943690361

La Leze S.C
Caserío La Leze
01260 Ilarduia. Álava. (Spain)
+34 945304158

Pedro Zuzuarregui
Barrio Montezkue, 30
20400 Tolosa. Guipúzcoa. (Spain)
+34 943654641

For a more complete list of Idiazabal cheese producers, contact us here
Works Cited:
Danielle Pergament. “Nibbling Through Spain’s Cheese Country.” New York Times 23 Nov. 2008
<http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/11/23/travel/23explorer.html?pagewanted=2>

Doidiazabal.com. 2008. Denominación de Origen Quesos Idiazabal.
< http://www.doidiazabal.com/>

Brainyquote.com. 2008. http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/c/charles_de_gaulle.html

Florence Fabricant. “The Riches of Spain: Its Cheese; A New Appetite In America.” New York Times 10 May. 200o
< http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9801E2DA1138F933A25756C0A9669C8B63&sec=&spon=&&scp=3&sq=idiazabal&st=cse>